Panama, Casco Antiguo
Casco Viejo, San Felipe


Yesterday I was running to meet a client and suddenly got caught in the middle of this great religious parade. Kids dressed in white where at the front of the Virgen de la Merced (My Lady of La Merced) which was being carried all through Avenida A, from 9th street to first street and then back to La Merced church.  People singing, and of course, the band playing loud, cheerful music. But in the specific case of La Merced Virgin, there is a sutile presence between the followers for those who look at the details.

So it happens that Panama is a fully Caribbean culture. I´ve never grown tired of saying it, because it is so true and explains so much. One of the things that connect Caribbean cultures is their love for Orishas, which in some countries is called the Santeria religion, more famously in Cuba and in Brazil, but that originally travelled from Africa during the Spanish conquest. Those black descendants settled in the Caribbean islands came later to Panama to work in the Canal, and brought their cultural traditions.

As a result, a lot of Panamanians have a "santero" de confianza (of trust) or at least knows someone that knows someone. In Casco Antiguo, where our afroantillian culture is very much alive, most people consider the Orishas their protector. Changó, Yemanja and Oshun are between the most popular, just as they are in Cuba. One of the ways back in the slave trade times to protect the followers from the Spanish punishment was to conceal their beliefs into a Catholic figure. Oshun, for example, became the Lady of La Merced, from what they call "La Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre" (Cooper´s Charity). 

Her color is yellow, but santeros and "babalaos" are meant to dress fully in white (check out the last picture and you´ll see a group of fully dressed santeras and babalaos with their white head bandana and hats). Oshun is supposed to rule all things sweet and beautiful, she is considered the love goddess, although as the story goes she is never lucky as she gets hurt constantly. Her elements are said to be honey and sunflowers. People go to her to ask for a love (of course) but also for a home, either new or for its protection. If you ever go to La Merced church, you´ll see little "house" toys under the feet of the virgin´s statue. I´m not sure the priest really knows why they are there and why he has such a big following....

By the way, if you are interested in afroantillian culture, don´t miss the congos of Portobelo. They are Panama´s direct connection to Africa. Through their dance, language and art they are a door to the past but also to our roots. If you are in Casco, don´t forget to pass by Karavan art Gallery at Calle 3era. Sandra Eleta works with the congo community in Portobelo and they are producing some interesting and enjoyable art. Every piece has a meaning, so don´t forget to ask!