Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe
Back in my
university days, I did a paper on Panama’s National Theatre. Although
looking back it was pretty much incomplete, naïve and badly written, I can’t
tell you how much I enjoyed researching for it. For me, the National Theatre is
like a second home, a place that saw me grow up while dancing. It’s history has
always been from glory to disaster, and then to glory again.
One of the
things that made me smile was the first “Gaceta Oficial”
( the newspaper where the government publishes the laws when they are approved)
where they mentioned the need to build a theatre. I remember the document said something along these lines:
“And we will dedicate the sum of (I think it was) a million dollars to build:
the presidential house, a university, public bathrooms, a theatre”. I guess you tend to forget that everything, even big things like countries had a starting point, and for Panama as a Republic it was only in 1903.
Another curiosity was the Theatre´s “code of conduct”. I
remember it mentioned that ladies with feather hats should remove them, and
gentlemen with tall hats. Also, you were not allowed to make noise with your
walking stick (baston). The main balconies where assigned to the Fire
Department, the central one to the President, and there was another one for the
Major. The original theatre was made mostly out of wood (of course, no air
conditioning) and when the car came into fashion it was necessary to change it
because of the noise outside.
The Republic of Panama was literally being born, and the
National Theatre was it´s social and cultural heart.
A beautiful
article came out the other day at Ellas from La Prensa, celebrating the
National Theatre´s 100 years. Written by Vannie Arrocha Morán, please search it
out: www.prensa.com
The
original building where the theatre was later on built was actually a monastery
for nuns. They had a small theatre called Sarah Bernahrdt, as it is said that
the artist was once brought to perform there during the time of the French Canal.
But the “Teatro Nacional” as we call it
in Spanish, was built over the monastery and inaugurated in 1908 during the
presidency of José Domingo de Obaldía. Its debut was grandiose, with the opera
Aida presented by the Italian company Mario Lambardi.

The
building was designed by Giussepe Ruggieri, one of the most prolific architects
in Panama
at the time. Roberto Lewis painted the ceiling frescoes, and Enrico Corrado did
the chalk sculpture. It was the time for
optimism, so the Theatre had a lot of work showing all the well known operas
from Carmen to La Traviatta.

Reaching
the 30´s the theatre experiences its first fall. It hit bottom, as at some
point it even got to be used as a movie theatre. Special note here: the
National Theatre was the crème of the crème of San Felipe. However, Santa Ana had also its
own jewel in Teatro Variedades. This Theatre in theory was aimed to the popular
sectors which couldn’t pay the National Theatres´s fees. However, at least for
the first period of splendor, the same opera or ballet company that would
perform at the National Theatre one night would go to the Variedades the next
night for a cheaper price. The story of both theatres sort of go hand by hand
in this first period. When the National Theatre decays, Variedades bites the
dust too. And if the National Theatre got to be a movie theatre, well…
Variedades became a boxing ring and a movie theatre. When they where showing
movies, the evening started with a ruffle between the public, the news, a
comedy act, cartoons and then the movie. You could spend the entire evening there,
and maybe even take a prize back home.

Back to the
National Theatre, it got its first intervention in 1941 by the architect
Guillermo de Roux. However, in the 70´s it fell again. The 70´s was a difficult
time as it marked the beginning of the military regime. The Theatre got used
for all sorts of things, including the school proms. In 1974 the architect René
Brenes is hired to work on the theatre again. But by 1999 it was a disaster. I
remember betting with my dancer friends when the chandelier was going to
finally fall on top of everyone.

Well, the
chandelier never got to fall, but the ceiling painting from Roberto Lewis. So
in the year 2004 the Theatre went into a full rehab. For those who worked on
this project they have said that the original proposal included much more
stuff. However, from the stand point of a user at the backstage, it was a lot
of work and the theatre really took back its dignity. Personally, I would have loved to see
the original side gardens recovered and the café opened towards it creating a
“café de la opera” (which is now parking) but well, maybe we had to leave something for next time.
A 100 years
old! Celebrations are at hand, starting August 7th with a concert to
commemorate the Artist´s Day. In August 28th, the soprano Nicole
Puga will sing in a gala from the Fundación Bel Canto. The National Orchestra
will perform on the 1st of October and the National Ballet will
present Bayadere from the 6th to the 8th of October.

Madame
Butterfly will perform on the 14th and 16th of October.
And two award ceremonies will be held at the ends of October: the Ricardo Miro
(for poetry) on the 17th and the Roberto Lewis on the 31st.