Panama,
Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe
Yesterday I read an article about Panama and foreigners living and doing
business here. As usual, the posts below showed a wide range of comments, but
there was one that got my attention: a disappointed person remarked that Panama
was not paradise and it had a list of all things he didn´t like. In my
job as a real estate agent there is one and only one thing I am absolutely
certain: expectations play a huge roll in the level of satisfaction of the client.
This can certainly be applied to all aspects of our lives, as humans are
constantly out looking for "paradise" in every little corner.
Now, the trick with this "paradise" problem is multiple. Notice I say
"trick" because it is a trick. We trick ourselves into believing a
place or a thing are "paradise", and marketing specialists know this
(as they are humans too) and use this tendency to make us fantasize and to get
us to buy stuff. We, as clients know it, but we still fall for it. That´s the
game, and I get the sense we like it.
But Paradise is a deceiving thing on both sides of the road. To begin with,
Paradise means a lot of radically different things to a lot of people. In my
closest dictionary, Paradise is a state of supreme happiness, bliss. It is also
a place of extreme beauty, delight, or happiness. All of it, we know, lies in
the eye of the beholder, which at the same time is pumped up or not by
expectations. Not even religion can get it together on what is or should be
Paradise. Somehow, people got it into their minds it was white beach and a
sunny sky. That means tan beach ain´t paradise? I like tan beach. I like it
more than white, frankly. And I like clouds, it is less hot and I feel less
dehydrated. And rain is quite romantic.
Truth is that we have allowed ourselves to get wired in a way that paradise is
a package of very defined things (which anyways change from culture to culture
and from people to people) and when it doesn´t look, feel or taste like the
magazine cover of our preference, then there is a problem. But the trick is
that we know, as we also know models in magazines aren´t that beautiful when
met person to person (they do have skin marks, they are very skinny and some
even have bad hair... but great bones!), that paradise simply doesn´t exist as
perfection doesn´t exist. It is all a fantasy to make us escape our reality for
a while. But read it again: Paradise doesn´t exist.
Now, as for the argument that Panama is paradise, it is just not true. As
usual, the media creates the "hipe" by using those words to the point
where they loose all meaning. In the past, words tended to be these valuable
vehicles to convey important concepts that had some weight. When you gave your
word it meant the world. No papers needed to be signed. With the extreme
use of faaaabulous, wooonderful, paradise, fantastic, etc we have lost track of
what they mean. Faabulous is the new pink or vanilla. And it is a shame,
because some things are trully amazing, wonderful and fantastic or beautiful.
But used without discretion just to overcome the "marketing noise"
out there to get your product across it looses its own value and by the way
hurts the same product you wanted to highlight.
We should start downsizing, even in our everyday conversations. Don´t mind the
financial bubble, there is a language bubble crisis in modern society that is
getting to affect our judgement about the world and is numbing us to the
real great things that life and countries have to offer us. We should
make a vow never to use the word "paradise" and use words like great,
nice and enjoyable when there is really a cause for it.
Why? because this is the only way everyone wins. Think about it: if you
scream "paradise" and someone buys on it, when they get there and it
happens it rains too much, traffic is loud, it is too hot or any other thing,
then both client and marketer end up in a bad spot. But if your speech is
truthful and moderate, and it sets the right expectations, when the person buys
he is satisfied and both parties end up in the right place.
For many years, we´ve had this notion that Caribbean countries (and make no
mistake, Panama is a Caribbean country) are paradise. White beaches, laid back
population, a coconut and a palm. The hammock and piña colada life. But
reality, as all realities, is made of different angles and the "simple
life" is far from simple. Caribbean countries have wonderful
beaches, most likely full of sand fleas, mosquitoes, etc. Nature is great until
you get bit by something. People are laid back, which means a heavy lazy vein
is also present. They are happy people and love to party, I guess that is fine.
But partying has it´s own set of negative things, as many would know very well.
For every good thing there is a bad one, as every coin has two sides, and
ignoring it is trying to cover the sun with the finger.
Everything is cheaper in Caribbean countries, Panama included, and I agree the
country has streched this card too far. But expecting exactly the same service
at the same level as you where at home but for half the price is unrealistic.
If it is half the price is because there are hidden costs, and it is normal
that there would be. Hidden costs are usually charged under the currency of
time (things take longer to get done), effort (we are laid back, remember?) and
cultural differences among other things.
Rabindranath Tagore once said: "If you cry for loosing the sun, your tears
will prevent you from looking at the stars". Panama isn´t paradise,
but it is a great place to live and to invest in. It is a place on Earth, not
on Heaven (wherever that is in your specific culture and religion). If you are
setting up a business, you do have far less competition. It is hard work, don´t
fool yourself. But you have the opportunity to do things and be an entrepreneur
in ways that maybe your country wouldn´t allow for it anymore as it is so
crowded. Panama may not have super white sand beaches everywhere and at the
snaps of your fingers, but it does have two interesting coasts with wild
geographies worth exploring. And if white sand is what you need, go to San
Blas, Bocas or Pearl Islands, you´ll find it there.
Not all Panamanians speak English, but Panama´s incredible diversity for the
small country it is makes for an intriguing palette to explore. Seven different
indian tribes, a mix of Spanish, afroantillian, african, white, chinese, you
name it! You are lucky there is at least a common language in Spanish! Service
isn´t probably at the top level, but the country is learning fast. It is one of
the easiest countries to travel to and to do tourism, as everything is so
close. You can plan for beach, mountain and ethnic in a less than a week
vacation or just relax on a fishing trip at really beautiful sites.
For a scientist, diversity is paradise. If so, then Panama is paradise. The one
other strenght it has other than geographic location is diversity. In every
aspect. Panama has a little bit of everything, and for those adventurous sould
who enjoy exploring a petit store of curiosities, Panama is a good fit.
Since I have dedicated my life to a very specific part of Panama, Casco
Viejo, I should make a disclaimer right away: Casco Viejo is not
paradise. It is a 300 year old colonial site, where everything is mixed.
From architecture (art deco side by side with caribbean, colonial, french,
republican among others) to social (poor, middle class and rich), to lifestyles
and ways of thinking. Restored and unrestored, ruins side by side with sites
under construction.
Casco Viejo is the most down to earth community I know and that is where the
true beauty lies. It is not fabulous in a "dinner topic"
manner, but it is highly unusual and very special because it is so rare and
somehow for those who get it, it is just visceral. Here people care about
people and the ones who have moved here and / or invested here enjoy building a
community for others. This, in combination with the beautiful site itself,
makes for the best you can hope for anywhere whether it is back home or not.
This morning, I woke up with a thought. I understand the deep need for people
to constantly be looking for paradise and happiness. Aristoteles said that was
mankind only mission. But the truth is that if anywhere, paradise is within
ourselves. Once we know that, then the world is our playground and is important
to see things for what they are, not judge them on how the magazine cover looks
like. Those are made to shine on our faces and trigger "buy, buy,
buy". Be curious, don´t expect anything. This is not only with
Panama, this applies everywhere. With open eyes, you´ll be able to enjoy both
the sun and the everlasting beauty of a night full of stars.