The internet is an amazing thing. Little would I know Casco Viejo is already featured in one of England´s most read sites. And not only Casco Viejo, but my favorite spots: Baños Publicos and La Casona! Good job guys! Check it out here:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/mar/22/panamacanal.southamerica?page=2
Going local in Panama City
Vicky Baker is travelling
around Central and South America guided by the
local people she meets on social networking sites. This week: Panama
City
'I don't get to travel as
much as I'd like," says Xili, my guide in Panama City. "That's why I love meeting
couchsurfers. I feel like I'm travelling with them."
Born in Nicaragua but having spent 14 of her 26 years in
Panama,
she discovered couchsurfing.com just three months ago, becoming an instant
convert to the concept of volunteering to host passing travellers. Although she
can't follow the literal interpretation of having people sleeping on her couch
("My roommate doesn't understand"), she is happy to show just about
anyone around the country's booming capital.
Panama
City has
been nicknamed the "Miami
of the south" and the parallels are as glaring as the sunlight: waterside
skyscrapers, palm-lined avenues, multicultural cuisine, mind-boggling
commercialism . . . but it was the tales of its pulsating nightlife that caught
my attention. My travel-networking experiment across Central and South America
got off to a great start in Ecuador,
but I've yet to arrange a big night with a local.
If anyone was up for taking
things up a notch, it was Xili (pictured above, right), a hardworking,
hard-playing lawyer. With her couchsurfing profile listing music, partying and
dancing among her interests, I was sure she could show me a good time.
"I hope you're not
planning to sleep tonight," she says with a grin, as we come face to face
for the first time, having exchanged a series of emails. We've arranged to meet
in Casco Viejo, the city's most up-and-coming neighbourhood, where derelict
colonial buildings are slowly being renovated and a creative undercurrent is
bubbling.
What follows is an
all-night tour of her favourite night spots. We start with Casco Viejo's La Casona
de las Brujas (enlacasona.com, a live music venue with an
open-air courtyard decked in fairylights) and Baños Publicos
(Plaza Herrera's former public bathroom now hosting alternative rock bands).
Then, in the early hours, we move on to the bright lights of Calle Uruguay,
where minimalist S6IS satisfies Xili's craving for reggaeton,
and the more mainstream rock venue Sahara fits the bill when
she has a sudden "need for David Bowie".
Would I have found these
places alone? Maybe. In such a short time frame? Unlikely. Xili's tour is the
equivalent of a shot glass of pure liquor - it provides an instant hit of
Panamanian nightlife, while the warm welcome from all her friends makes me feel
right at home.
Going local in Panama City
Vicky Baker is travelling
around Central and South America guided by the
local people she meets on social networking sites. This week: Panama
City
'I don't get to travel as
much as I'd like," says Xili, my guide in Panama City. "That's why I love meeting
couchsurfers. I feel like I'm travelling with them."
Born in Nicaragua but having spent 14 of her 26 years in
Panama,
she discovered couchsurfing.com just three months ago, becoming an instant
convert to the concept of volunteering to host passing travellers. Although she
can't follow the literal interpretation of having people sleeping on her couch
("My roommate doesn't understand"), she is happy to show just about
anyone around the country's booming capital.
Panama
City has
been nicknamed the "Miami
of the south" and the parallels are as glaring as the sunlight: waterside
skyscrapers, palm-lined avenues, multicultural cuisine, mind-boggling
commercialism . . . but it was the tales of its pulsating nightlife that caught
my attention. My travel-networking experiment across Central and South America
got off to a great start in Ecuador,
but I've yet to arrange a big night with a local.
If anyone was up for taking
things up a notch, it was Xili (pictured above, right), a hardworking,
hard-playing lawyer. With her couchsurfing profile listing music, partying and
dancing among her interests, I was sure she could show me a good time.
"I hope you're not
planning to sleep tonight," she says with a grin, as we come face to face
for the first time, having exchanged a series of emails. We've arranged to meet
in Casco Viejo, the city's most up-and-coming neighbourhood, where derelict
colonial buildings are slowly being renovated and a creative undercurrent is
bubbling.
What follows is an
all-night tour of her favourite night spots. We start with Casco Viejo's La Casona
de las Brujas (enlacasona.com, a live music venue with an
open-air courtyard decked in fairylights) and Baños Publicos
(Plaza Herrera's former public bathroom now hosting alternative rock bands).
Then, in the early hours, we move on to the bright lights of Calle Uruguay,
where minimalist S6IS satisfies Xili's craving for reggaeton,
and the more mainstream rock venue Sahara fits the bill when
she has a sudden "need for David Bowie".
Would I have found these
places alone? Maybe. In such a short time frame? Unlikely. Xili's tour is the
equivalent of a shot glass of pure liquor - it provides an instant hit of
Panamanian nightlife, while the warm welcome from all her friends makes me feel
right at home.
As for the nightlife
itself, Calle Uruguay
may be the country's much-hyped nightlife avenue, but, for me, it's the Casco
Viejo venues - less commercial, more bohemian - that leave a lasting
impression.
Getting back to my hostel
just before dawn, an 8am start the next day is far from ideal, but I have
prearranged a meet with my second Panama
City contact, Gabriel from asmallworld.net).
ASW is one of a handful of
invite-only travel networking sites (see also yacht6.com). How do you gain
access to such a hallowed portal? Try asking around. A vague acquaintance - a
self-confessed social-networking addict - helped get me through the door.
(Although, if I fail to resist temptation to spam fellow members James Blunt
and Naomi Campbell, I'll be out.)
ASW is undeniably elitist,
nicknamed Snobster in reference to early social networking site Friendster.
However, in my limited use, I've always met exceptions to the rule. Gabriel - a
thirtysomething owner of an office supplies company and yoga teacher - is such
an example: clearly well off, but down-to-earth, unassuming and very generous
in his offer to let me join his out-of-town kitesurfing excursion.
Gabriel and friends spend
every weekend camping out at Punta Chame, a little-known beach an hour and a
half's drive from the city. "You just arrived in Panama and
you're already at Punta Chame?" asks Amit, a fellow ASW member and
kitesurfing addict, as I dip my toes in the Pacific for the first time.
"You've certainly started at the top."
Jutting out on a peninsula,
a clear day here offers views of the city and, when the tide is out, I have its
expansive sands almost to myself, watching the kitesurfers crisscross the
gentle waves. Later, as the wind subsides, we convene in the beach's only
restaurant to refuel on fresh fish and patacones (thick slices of plantain,
squashed and fried).
The surfers are a sociable
bunch and I find myself leaving the beach with a collection of phone numbers.
After just one week, I feel like I've already begun to establish a small social
circle through Gabriel and Xili (who I see many more times). After receiving
invites to group dinners, house parties, karaoke nights and even a gig in a
rainforest, I become even more convinced that travel networking is the way
forward.
I'm starting to feel Panama will be
tough to leave, but, fortunately, I have one more week. Next up I'm planning to
see the less glamorous side of the country in Colon with Xili, and meet Toyo, a
travel-networking member of the Kuna tribe. "Amiga!" he writes, when
I tell him I'm in the country. "Welcome to my home. See you next
week."
Travel networking
etiquette
Keep it personal
Contacting someone saying
simply "Hello. Can I stay at your house for a week?" is unlikely to
elicit a positive response. Introduce yourself and your plans. Where possible
make the person feel you've chosen them for
a reason.
Always reply
If you request to meet
someone and they send a personal response to
say they won't be able to make it, return the courtesy with a reply rather than
just moving straight on to the next person.
Communicate
Keep to your plans. Don't
leave your host waiting for you. Don't pull out at the last minute.
Give a little
If you're staying at
someone's house, bring a gift (maybe something typical from your own country).
If they're showing you around town, buy lunch or drinks if you can, and always
pay your way.
Be courteous
If staying at someone's
home, do not use it as a base to party with other people. Fit in with host's
schedule. Don't sleep in for hours. Don't overstay your welcome.
Socialise
Make sure you spend time
getting to know your host. If you're just after free accommodation or a tour
guide, you've got the wrong idea.
Xili's tips where to stay
in Panama City
Travel networking etiquette
Zuly's Backpackers
A tiny hostel with a
friendly atmosphere. One of the best value and a good, central location.
· Calle Ricardo Arias 8 (00507 6605
4742, geocities.com/zulys_independent
_backpacker/) dorm
bed $7.70.
La Casa de Carmen
A small, relaxed B&B
clean and full of colour. But make a reservation because it's always full.
· Calle 1a de Carmen (+263 4366, lacasadecarmen.net) singles $27.
Luna's Castle
Hostel
New, huge and located in a
charming part of the city, best for young and party-loving travellers.
· Calle 9a Casco Viejo (+262 1540, lunascastle.com) dorm bed $10.